Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania or the Land of 1000 Lakes
In June 2024, I decided to spend 5 days in the north of Germany, specifically in the Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania region. The name, which I don't even try to repeat in German, really didn't mean much to me. The whole area is flat, no mountains, but more than 1000 lakes and it is also the least populated region of Germany. Not exactly a typical destination for me, but that's why it was interesting to me.
The region of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania (or more precisely, the federal state) was divided in 1952: part belonged to West Germany and part to East Germany. After German reunification in 1990, the country was reunited. This also foreshadowed a piece of interesting history.
Travel to Germany is a great. From Poprad I choose the road through Poland and after Nový Targ I connect to the motorway and drive almost 850km without a break. I get off the motorway a few kilometres before the destination. In Poland there are only two sections on this route that are tolled, both €4, while in Germany the motorway is free. Fuel is of course cheaper in Poland and in Germany it is +- as in our country or only slightly more expensive.
Müritz National Park
After about 9 hours I arrive at my destination and I get out in front of a small hotel and i was really suprised. I feel like I'm somewhere in England or I don't know where: beautiful historic brick buildings, thatched roofs and stone roads. I really didn't expect this.
I start the trip in the Müritz National Park and specifically in the town of Boek. Well, town is probably too much. I would rather call it a settlement. But let's start in order.
Müritz is the youngest national park in Germany. It has more than 130 lakes, beech forests and heaths. The landscape is completely different to what I am used to. You can also find small towns with beautiful architecture here. The park is ideal for biking or hiking, and canoeing on the lakes is also very popular. And I will try it all :)
I have booked accommodation at the lovely Residenz am Ostufer . I don't even unpack and run off on my first hike so that I can return before dark.
I planned a circuit from Boek to Priesterbäker See and around Hofsee. It was about 14km in total and the route was truly beautiful, although I would have used a bike the second time and extended the route.
The trail leads through beautiful pine forests that seemed like they were from prehistoric times. It was a real pleasure to walk and I had something to do to keep my throat from getting sore from looking at the treetops so much :)
I approach the Priesterbäker See lake for only a moment, I would like to go further around the lake, but I really don't have time. I take some photos and continue through the forests. I return to the village late in the evening, I go to check out Lake Müritz, by the way the largest lake in Germany (which lies entirely in Germany), I look around the nice campsite and I'm already planning how we will get there with my family and our camper van.
As usual, upon my return, I find that everything (absolutely everything) is already closed and I probably ate breakfast at home for the last time. But it doesn't matter, I'll somehow make it until morning.



Route of the first trip from Boek
Beautiful architecture of the villages in this region.
In the morning I'm having an extra rich breakfast, because my deficit from yesterday is approaching galactic proportions. I don't know how many guests were in the hotel, but since I went first, I'm almost sure that someone didn't have any left at the end :) But as they say, those who are late are harming themselves.
On this day I had a canoe on the agenda. I had it booked in the nearby village of Boeker Mühle and specifically in the Müritzkan . So right after breakfast I head to the meeting point, the guy prepares the boat for me and when he sees me looking at the chilled beer in his fridge, he gives me one. Together we launch the canoe into the water, he explains the basics to me and I go for it.
Since it is a national park, you can't just swim wherever you want. There are two marked water routes that you can use. I choose the shorter one, but in my opinion the more interesting one. It passes through three lakes that are connected by beautiful canals. It is 5km long one way, 10km there and back. I don't know what to expect from it, I'm curious myself.
But after a few meters, my deck exploded. I felt like I was somewhere in the rainforest. I admit: I had a Bluetooth speaker with me and in the boat I quietly played some relaxing music, opened a cold beer, put down my oars, and absorbed the power and energy that came from that place. Truly amazing.


When I woke up from unconsciousness, I had to start rowing further. I reached Lake Caarpsee via the Bolter Canal. The place where the canal connected to the lake was full of blooming water lilies. Beautiful. And wherever I looked, I saw birds everywhere. That is also an attraction, why wildlife photographers come here more and more often. But I am not into wild life photo at all, I just enjoy it.
I paddle across the lake and enter the second part of the Bolter Canal. And it is at least same beautiful as the first one. I don't know when or if I have ever seen such a beautiful forest anywhere. And of course, no one anywhere.

I go into the lake again. This one is called Woterfizsee and it is much bigger than the first one. My route is marked with buoys and the other shore doesn't seem close at all. Too bad I only begged for one beer :). I work really hard and after some time I find myself on the other shore and dive into the Junker canal, which takes me to the third lake called Lepinsee. Here I come to the campsite, take a short break on the pier and return along the same route.

I would have stayed here longer, but i am really hungry and on the way back I have a stop planned at the small family fish restaurant Müritzfischer Fischers Land Boek . And it was worth it! It's not really a restaurant, maybe more of a fish buffet. It's right on the lake shore, outdoor seating, good beer and fresh fish in all kinds of ways. Mostly fish sandwiches or baguettes. I have a large sandwich with fried fish, vegetables and dressing for an incredible €6. Am I really in Germany?? They would charge twice as much for this in our country. I definitely recommend this stop.
After a good meal, I return to the start, push the boat to the rental shop myself, follow the instructions on the cart, put it away, and continue my trip.
My canoe route. Müritz National Park. This was an experience I would happily repeat.
And this lunch was the highlight of the day. Müritz National Park
The town of Malchow and its surroundings
My next step is the town of Malchow, which will be a stopover. I check into a hotel, take a pre-booked bike straight there and set off on a short trip around the area. The bike has a very urban feel, but I hope I'll get used to it somehow. The town is located on the shore of Lake Malchowersee and its historical part is made up of a small island right on the lake, which is connected to the rest of the town by a bridge. I cycle through the historic centre (otherwise there are stone roads everywhere, "perfect" for a city bike) and cross to the other side via the road that forms a dam on the lake. I take a route to the village of Untergöhren and back. A nice scenic route, but the best part awaits me on the way back, the monastery in Malchow. It is a beautiful historical complex on the shore of the lake opposite the town of Malchow. It is like a smaller campus or town within the city. Streets, beautiful buildings, embankment. I really liked it here and even found a spot for the sunset. A small wooden pier where women used to wash clothes in the lake. Nice :)
After sunset I have a delicious pizza at Ristorante Don Camillo . I return to the hotel after dark. I am completely exhausted. That day I first paddled a canoe in the morning, transferred to Malchow, went on a bike ride, watched the sunset at the lake and drove to the hotel. Kaput.

Beautiful streets of the town of Malchow and the monastery of the same name.
Sternberg - Warnow River Rafting
The next day I have another active program and I'm starting to worry if I've planned too much. I move to the town of Sternberge Burg, where I meet a guy with the incredible name Sven Muskulus, which sounds like something out of some Nordic legend to me :) Sven is supposed to hand over the canoe to me and I'm expected to have, I hope, an interesting route. Only after arriving i do find out that this time it's not a backwater, but a flowing river. I'm supposed to complete the rafting alone and it's about 10km. Well, I really don't have any experience with this, I put the camera in the car, I only take my mobile phone, a 360° camera with a pole and some water with me. And respect :)
Sven mentions that there is a problem spot halfway through, but that I will definitely be able to do it. The route initially takes me along the Mildenitz stream, later I am supposed to join the Warnow river. Right at the beginning I have to change my style a bit. The water is flowing and I have to react faster. The river is full of old trees and branches, in places the river forks for a moment and I have to decide which way to go. But again it is pure beauty. An explosion of green, beautiful water and lots of wild life all around. Beauty.
I recognize the problematic place and I i was little bit scared. The water is much faster there, there are a lot of fallen trees in the river and I have to use all my strength to be able to meander between them in the current. In total, the rafting takes me two hours and at the end Sven is waiting for me, and will take me back to the car.


Warnow River Rafting Route
Schwerin and its castle
After the rafting I move to the city of Schwerin. It is the capital of the Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania region, has around 100 thousand inhabitants and interestingly there are 7 lakes right in the city. There is also one of the most beautiful castles in Germany - Schwerin Castle, which is famous for having 365 towers and turrets.
I am staying at the Hotel Speicher am Ziegelsee . A beautiful historic building, once used as a grain granary. The building was really sensitively converted into a hotel in 2017 and I think it is a very nice architectural landmark in the area.
I walk from the hotel to the city center. As usual, I don't even know when I last ate, so my first effort is towards food. I got a tip for the MÜLLERS bistro. It's located in a beautiful alley, in an even more beautiful brick building with a courtyard. Only when I sit down do I realize that it's a vegan bistro and I hesitate for a moment...but what the heck, I guess they also have something hearty here. I take advice from the waiter and have a vegan doner and I'll tell you that I've probably never had a better one. Add a great local beer and I can keep going, because sunset is approaching and I have a busy schedule ahead of me :)
After about 10 minutes I arrive at the shore of Lake Schwerinersee and a view of the castle opens up. I'm not really into sights, but this one should get everyone. The castle is built on a small island, surrounded by water, which makes it an ideal photo opportunity. But before that, I have a short program ahead of me. I'm going to rent a paddleboard and swim around the castle.
I find the rental shop where I have reserved a paddleboard right away, get on it and set off with some trepidation. I'm dressed, I only have my mobile phone and a 360° camera with me and I try it standing up. After a while I get used to it and enjoy a really beautiful circuit around the castle. It takes me about an hour and I return to the pier satisfied.
Then I head to the castle grounds, look into the castle garden and look for a place for the sunset. I find that relatively quickly. I look for a composition and just enjoy it. The sunset really came out on a high note.
On the way to the hotel I stop at the oldest pub in town. I have a beer, all the people are just sitting outside. On the sidewalk, on a bench, on the curb. The atmosphere gets me. I have another one, smile and after dark I walk an hour back to the hotel.
This city has won me over. Beautiful architecture, 7 lakes right in the city, a beautiful castle and a great atmosphere. It's definitely worth seeing.


Moments from wandering around Schwerin
Schaalsee - UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
The next day I move on from Schwerin again. My destination is Lake Schaalsee, which is a UNESCO protected reserve with its surroundings. My base is the town of Zarrentin am Schaalsee. I have booked accommodation at the Seehotel Zarrentin .
That very day I have an arranged bike tour with Andreas, who is a local guide under the Schaalsee-Safari brand. I take my bike from the hotel and head to the meeting point. Andreas shows me the route plan, gives me basic information and we set off.
The route is a respectable 55km. At first it led us right around the lake, but later we set off through beautiful forests and rural countryside south around the Schaale River to the place where it flows into the Elbe. I was a little sad that we actually moved away from the lake itself and the floodplain forests around it, but the route was beautiful anyway. We passed through villages with interesting brick architecture, stopped at a family farm where we enjoyed cheese and good beer and walked past beautiful towns around the river, which were full of life. At the end of the route Andreas had a rather funny car ready (otherwise bought from Russia as new before the war. Production is still running), which he used to take me back to the hotel.

The route took us through villages with beautiful houses, we stopped at a family farm. TOP
Cycling route around Schaalsee
I have about 5 minutes to take a break at the hotel and then I set off on my bike again for the sunset. On the way, I have a delicious burger on the beach by the lake and two beers. I immediately felt better :)
After about 40 minutes I find a place with a nice pier and a few boats and wait for the sunset. No wind, silence and no one anywhere. I enjoy it, wait until dark and then I cycle back to the hotel. After this day I am exhausted again and fall asleep in 5 minutes.

In the morning I get up at sunrise, take my bike and go around the lake in the opposite direction from the evening. I find a few nice places and then a nice pier where I wait for the sunrise, which was good again. Somehow I'm doing well with the sunsets and sunrises here :)



Jasmund National Park
After sunrise and a nice breakfast, I move on again, all the way to the very north of Germany, to the island of Rügen, where the Jasmund National Park is located, known mainly for its limestone cliffs above the sea and beech forests.
For the night, I choose a camp with the complicated name Naturerlebniscamp Birkengrund . It is really simple, and at quite nice prices, but most importantly, it is right next to the hiking trail and therefore I don't have to deal with any complicated transfer by car. I set off immediately after arrival. The path leads me through a beautiful forest and the closer I am to the sea, the more massive the trees become. A large part of the route through the forest leads along a nice stone path, which suggests that it has been used for purposes other than tourism since ancient times.
After about an hour and a half, the light on the horizon increases and I sense that I'm approaching the sea. I come to the end of the forest and... stare. I knew it was nice here, but I didn't expect this. I'm standing on a beautiful snow-white cliff, the blue sea below me and kitschy green trees all around. It's beautiful here.

I continue along the cliffs towards the town of Sassnitz. Somewhere in that direction there should be an opportunity to climb down the cliffs to the beach. I find the place after a few kilometers, go down the wooden stairs and walk back along the beach under the high cliffs. I met a few more people up there, but down here I have everything to myself. The wildness of the place takes my breath away. Cliffs, driftwood, sea and boulders. Beauty. I walk along the beach for about two hours, where I take pictures, prepare lunch and enjoy it. I pack up and start walking along the beach towards the town so that I can return before dark. Of course, when I get to the town it is already dark, and everything (completely everything) is closed and I am again without dinner :(. I still have an hour to get to the campsite and I arrive there at eleven at night. The whole route was 20km.



My route in Jasmund National Park. You could definitely spend more days here.
Moments from a hike in Jasmund National Park.
The next day, I have only a long but comfortable journey home. I download podcasts and books and set off. I stop for some shopping, as I discovered that food in Germany is really cheaper than here :).
Conclusion
This trip left me with many impressions, and they were all positive. I was afraid that there would be no mountains here, but in the end I didn't miss them at all. Of course, it's not a top place for landscape photography, but it's definitely a top place for cool hipster travel and I regretted the whole time that I couldn't take Evka here, she would have loved it. Beautiful nature, even more beautiful architecture, excellent modern gastronomy in the cities and a very pleasant atmosphere of the region won me over. And I'm not talking about the prices of food here, which are cheaper than at home, and the highway is free. It's not like a holiday in Germany is expensive anymore.
We are already planning a trip for this summer with the kids, I have to point it all out to them.
Comments